Pheasant Tail Green Rockworm
![[image of fly]](../scans/flies/grock.gif)
(Click on the image to get a much, much larger jpeg version)
Materials
- Hook: something in the style of an English bait hook (#20-#12)
- Thread: olive
- Rib: relatively strong olive thread (monocord works good)
- Shellback & Tail: pheasant tail (see below)
- Body: light olive angora goat
- Thorax: olive squirrel dubbing
Tying Instructions
- 1.
- So the first thing you need to do here is figure out how you want
to place the hook in your vise. The wicked curve in an English bait hook is
ideal for green rockworms & such,
but has the drawback of making things a bit
tricky for the tyer. If you are tying with a fixed vise like a Thompson
A, it seems to work best if you start out with the eye of the hook set
lower than normal, making the back half of the hook closer to being level.
Then halfway through the body carefully loosen the hook and raise the eye
to make the front half closer to level. I use a Regal vise now, so all I
need to do is tilt the vise as I go.
- 2.
- OK, so you have your hook tilted as you like in the vise. Attach the thread
and wind back toward the bend. (notice that there are sort of two bends in
this hook, a slow gradual one from the eye back, and a sharp one nearer to
the point. From here on, when I refer to the bend, I'm talking about the
sharper one.) Clip off a few fibers (depending on the hook size... say
about 5 for a size 20, a dozen or more for size 12) from the pheasant tail.
I like to use the fibers from the lower part of the central tail feathers,
because they don't marry together, and have a nice iridescent tinge to them.
For the olive flies above, I used a tail that was dyed yellow -- if you
take a natural (unbleached!) pheasant tail and dye it yellow, you get a nice
olive/brown color. Tie them in by the tips about 1/3 of the way up from the
bend. The idea here is to leave just a hint of a tail (something like 1/4 of
the body length) , to provide some movement,
and simulate the gills and "anal prolegs" (oooh, fancy words...) of the
natural. Don't trim the
rest of the pheasant -- it will become the shellback .
- 3.
- Tie in the monocord thread. Take a sip from an ice cold beverage.
- 4.
- Start dubbing the body with the angora goat. You really don't need to
taper it much, as the actual bugs aren't really tapered... And don't worry
if its a bit lumpy, the natural is kinda lumpy anyway. The angora
should cover about 2/3 the body length. Somewhere in there you may need
to reposition the hook.
- 5.
- Carefully pull the pheasant over the top of the body and wrap the olive
monocord over it to hold it down. This also gives an added segmented effect.
When you reach the point where you stopped dubbing, secure only the monocord
with the thread, and leave the ends of the pheasant alone. You may want to
secure them out of the way somewhere for the next step.
- 6.
- Dub in the squirrel for the thorax. It should be a bit thicker and more
shaggy than the angora. Leave a bit of space for the head.
- 7.
- Now pull the pheasant over the top of the thorax & tie it off. Finish off
the head and you are done. The head maybe should be a bit larger than it would
be for most flies, since its actually simulating the bug's head. If you
really want, you can put two back dots on either side of the head to simulate
the eyes.
This or something similar is an essential fly for the McKenzie -- every time I've seined the river, it
comes up loaded with green rockworms. Some are even fluorescent green, but those are
rare. Not all are green, some smaller ones (size 20 or 18) are grey or tan.

The McKenzie Page
last update: Feb 12, 1996
dmason@zebu.uoregon.edu